News | May 23, 2000

Making Up is Easy to Do, with Microsphere Technology

Source: American Institute of Chemical Engineers (AIChE)
New York—Ever look at a supermodel's face in a magazine and say "If only my face looked that good?" Forget the fact that, for the most part, they're only a few years past puberty. What else do you notice? An application of makeup that looks so smooth, luxurious, and effortless, that you think you can't possibly achieve the same effect, right? Well, thanks to engineers at 3M, cosmetics will soon benefit from a new technology that can help make your makeup look flawlessly smooth without spending a fortune.

In November, the 3M Performance Materials Division officially unveiled a new additive to enhance the feel of cosmetics—microspheres. These microscopic "ball bearings" can be used in powders, liquid or cream foundations, lipsticks, and mascara to give the finished products the premium, silky smoothness and luxurious feel that consumers want and that were previously possible in only the most expensive cosmetic lines.

Chemical engineer Madeline Shinbach, part of the Medical, Pharmaceutical, and Cosmetic team at 3M, says: "My effort as a product development engineer focused on understanding the unmet needs of the cosmetic manufacturer for a microsphere and tailoring the properties of the spheres to address those needs. My background in chemical engineering enabled me to imaginatively approach the problem in order to identify the most efficient methods to optimally achieve the results desired."

The microspheres, composed of perfectly spherical magnesium silicate (ceramic) particles manufactured synthetically using high temperature manufacturing technology, bring improved feel, spreadability, and wear to the final product. In lipsticks, the beads reduce tackiness. Liquid and cream foundations also benefit with improved feel, and in powder systems flow characteristics are improved while breakage in pressed powders is reduced. In addition, the chemically inert particles serve as an "invisible" filler useful in formulating deep shades where other fillers can cause a chalky whitening effect, oil absorption is low, and the microspheres are not susceptible to a graying effect associated with some micas and talcs.

3M cosmetic microspheres are available in the United States through Cardre, Inc., and sales of the cosmetic microspheres outside the United States will begin in 2000. Several major cosmetic companies are very interested in the microspheres and plan to incorporate the product into their lines.

The new cosmetic microspheres are the latest application of 3M's patented technology, which includes beads made of glass and ceramic designed to be an alternative to conventional fillers and additives such as calcium carbonate silicas, gypsum, feldspar, etc., in many demanding applications. The technology, focused on industrial applications, can enhance product properties, reduce costs, and improve processability in a wide range of industries and applications, such as improving flow and abrasion resistance of industrial, automotive, and aircraft paints; reducing weight and improving performance of flotation and insulation materials for submarines and military aircraft; and enhancing performance and reducing costs of such diverse products as oil drilling fluids, lightweight cements, and aerospace composites. Through the thoughtful selection of raw materials, the technology can be expanded to create microspheres that can address the needs of many new market areas.

According to Shinbach, 3M is further working to incorporate value-added features into the spheres, such as a delivery system which would transfer a range of beauty treatment ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids, folic acid, or vitamins. Shinbach added: "The combination of a chemical engineering background with 15 years of product development experience has allowed me to tackle the cosmetic microsphere challenge resulting in the creation of an innovative product for the cosmetic industry."

National Engineers Week, celebrated this year from February 20 to 26, acknowledges the achievements of engineers like Shinbach who are making a difference in how we work, play, or even "do our faces." Thousands of engineers, engineering students, teachers, and leaders in government and business participate each year. Co-chairs of National Engineers Week 2000 are the American Consulting Engineers Council and CH2M HILL. Since its founding in 1951 by the National Society of Professional Engineers, National Engineers Week, a consortium of more than 100 engineering, scientific, education societies, and major corporations, including the American Institute of Chemical Engineers (AIChE), has helped increase public awareness and appreciation of technology and the engineering profession.

American Institute of Chemical Engineers (AIChE), 3 Park Avenue, New York City, NY 10016-5901. Tel: 212-591-8100; Fax: 212-591-8894.